Another thing to consider for the preservation of coins in Dansco albums.

https://www.danscoalbumstore.com/dansco-slipcases-c-99.html

I don’t think Whitman offers such a product and maybe they should.

3D Double Distilled Deionized Reagent Grade Water.

https://www.bio-world.com/solvents/water-3ddeionized-double-distilled-p-42300000

The purest water on the planet to rinse your coin with after a dip. Never use tap water or bottled drinking water to rinse your coins unless you want spots. Never use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) either, as it is an organic compound (CH3 Methel) that contains carbon.

Sharks2th,
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At first, I was a little confused by all of your tries and retries. I didn’t know what to make of it. You know how these blogs are. Once and a while we get characters here with a strong opinion about something or another. Sometimes I can be a character too. Regardless, I finally read all of your approved posts in proper order this time. Your posts were not opinionated in any way and were mostly reposted facts from the TPGs. I am also in agreement with what you are trying to present and convey here.
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As a long-time collector, I will agree with you – the chemistry of any coin will change over time – guaranteed. Some coins are more stable than others and some are not. Certain simple gaseous elements from our natural environment can exacerbate change and others can minimize or abate change. Heat is another significant contributor in chemical reactions too. All plastics contain chlorides and hydrocarbons. These too are equally damaging to coins. I am sure that all of the TPGs are fully aware of these facts and they do not want to accept any responsibility for mother nature or her chemistry. I am of the belief that the best possible scenario for preservation is to chemically neutralize (dip) a newly minted coin, rinse it in distilled water, fully dry it, and then place it into a dark airtight temperature-controlled environment. As we have seen, toning turns to corrosion, and heavy corrosion eats metal. Copper and Silver are the least stable metals.
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Finally, these are the only guarantees that I have come to expect from a TPG; 1-the coin is not counterfeit, 2-the weight is correct, 3-the mechanical dimensions are correct, 4-the coin has been fully identified, 5-the coin has been graded to +/- one count of an accepted standard, 6-the surfaces of the coin have not been mechanically modified, 7-the coin has been statistically recorded, 8-the coin did not get damaged in their process, and 9-the encasement was done proper. Anything after that is out of everyone’s control.
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In closing, I have a great number of Intercept products, and I believe they do help.
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Thank you for your approved posts and your effort. It is all good stuff to share and know.

E1

That’s interesting Kaiser. 25 years is a long time to keep you in the dark regarding physical PM’s in IRA’s(since you mention owning 2/10 of 1 oz Au). He’s doing a “bang up job” alright…
Right into his pockets…
But I could be wrong!?….

Bummer on the pitting, no loss at that price. Put it in that cool & heavy “scrap box”, it will hold its value anyway. It was worth a try to improve the coin though? Now it’s time to find another PF 1960 for the album?!
Shark copy & pasted TPG policy and nothing more.
I hope the Valley heat wave ends soon, as it can play tricks on the mind!
Later bud

Rick,

This is all the info on the 1960 Proof Franklin. It is possible that the coin was chemically contaminated prior to certification or while in the holder. I think the bright green is a clue (PVC?). Also, when cracking out the coin, the plastic was very soft and pliable. It was extremely difficult to crack out and remove the coin. Also, I am not interested in seeking remedy with the seller or the TPG either. So, live and learn together. In due time, these albums will probably get CACed and moved into new cherry wood boxes.

As for Sharkie, I am not related to him, nor am I involved with his opinions, his motivations, or his posts. Sounds like he is on a mission and has a major hard-on for the TPGs.

Later

Stay safe to all of you in Florida.

Rick,

And here is the other one.

Enjoy!

Kaiser, are you catching any of this. There are your 1947 Walkers.

I’m done for a while.

Later Guys

Rick,

This was the first time I dipped a heavily toned proof coin. I’ve dipped a lot of proof Franklins and proof Kennedys before. But, they were hazy or had some PVC on them. This is the first time I experienced this. Glad I did though, as I will be moving into Proof Walkers next.

An early look for you below.

Cheers

CAC INFO
CAC Guarantee (***4)REMOVED LINK
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Please note if YOU get the coin graded, the guarantee DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU on CAC GRADED COINS!!!!! See Below:
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This Guarantee does not apply to the Owner of the coin at the time of original submission, including the original submitter’s agent or representative (such as a CAC authorized submitter). In fulfillment of this Guarantee, the Owner may be required to provide information and available documentation regarding the transaction history of a particular coin, including the date purchased, the purchase price (with receipts and other reasonable verification), the seller and the transaction amount, and other reasonable proof of ownership.
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CAC does NOT guarantee copper based coins under any conditions or terms!!!! SEE BELOW:
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ADDITIONAL TERMS
Copper, Bronze & Brass. Coins made of copper, bronze, or brass, or coins which are copper-plated can change over time and are NOT guaranteed.